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Lowering Links

8.8K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  CBR929RE  
#1 ·
I'm doing research on lowering the 954 with lowering links, just wanted to fill in the rest of my questions with this post. (If anyone has installed these and used them, or have extensive knowledge, please help!)

If you use the lowering links to lower the bike, approx 2 inches, what other adjustments are recommended on the bike.
I'm pretty sure these links aren't plug and play kind of hardware, and most likely gotta have the bike lifted by engine. If i'm wrong, or even on the right track, is there a certain way i should install the links, certain tools, or precautions in the install process?

Some links out there have the ability to lower up to 4 inches, for those who have lowered even 2 inches, is it even possible to do 4 without killing yourself?

Thanks.
XR
 
#2 ·
Welcome to the .org

Use the search option on the site for hours of infromative reading, Sonic Bombs will chime in with some first hand info.

As far as instillation I have never powered a 954 but have don a ZX10. We took 2 tiedown straps and suspensed the rear of the bike in the garage by connecting the straps between the rafters and the rear foot pegs. There may be a better way but this worked.
 
#3 ·
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-CBR-929-954-CBR929-CBR954-Lowering-Links-Bones_W0QQitemZ4569491916QQcategoryZ35592QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I have the one from Schnitz Racing, but these will work also. Same type I had on at first. You can lower it all the way and not have to change anything else. Like Hammer said, you have to lift the bike up by straps from the back. It's not hard, and only takes about 20 minutes to install or change the position. I like the one from Schnitz better because once installed, all you have to do is turn the nuts to adjust the height after the install. No more lifting the bike to change it to another hole. I did go to Home Depot and buy another threaded bolt to replace the one that came with it because I wanted it lower than what you could go with the original one.
 
#4 ·
Oh, the bottom of my plastic is only about an inch above the ground. I drag the bottom rear when I leave the line. I cut out the center of the bottom back area so each side goes into a point at the back because it kept breaking the push pins and tie straps I was putting on from the scraping.

If you are going to be drag racing with it, soften the suspension all the way soft, then back to hard 1 turn. Both settings, top and bottom screw.

I ride on the street occasionally and have no problem at all. If I do carry a passenger I will stiffen the suspension. Rarely do I raise it back up, but I have.
 
#5 ·
I also have the link that SilverBullet has. I got it because I have short leg syndrome but after improving my riding skills I wanted to have that groung clearance back and get the bike to turn a little quicker so I lifted it back up. I have it almost back to stock height. That link can go a lot higher than stock but I found that any higher than where I am (I'm guessing maybe a half in lower than stock) but it will rub the exhaust.

So if you really want to go low, such as SB for drag racing and replace it with a longer threaded rod then that link is the one. But Schnitz also has another style thats fully adjustable (not sure on how easy it is to adjust once on the bike) but it will eliminate the exhaust rubbing. I'm not sure but this one also looks like you can replace the threaded rod in it with a longer one if need be.

These ones do require you to reuse the bearings from the original dogbone and they can be a bit of a pain to get out and in the new one. So either get new ones or reuse the old ones but I reccommend getting new dust seals for them.

You'll also need to either cut out a piece of your stock kickstand and reweld it so its shorter or get an adjustable one. I have an adjustable one I got from Myrtle West Cycle.

Take a look at my gallery for good shots of both the link and kickstand.